| Puppy
Evaluation
One of the toughest things in the world to do is to look
at a litter of bright, adorable, naughty Siberian puppies
and not take one home with you. But the first rule of adding
a new puppy to your home is to take your time, do your homework,
and don’t bring home the first puppy that steals your
heart. In every litter, there will be at least one puppy
that seems irresistible, but your job is to get your puppy
from the right breeder, so you’ll have the best chance
at a healthy, happy, long life with your new Siberian Husky.
There are people who feel that they’re “only
getting a pet” so why should they bother to try to
get it from a good breeder? And there’s lots of confusion
about just what AKC papers mean. Some people believe that
if it’s got papers, then it’s good quality,
right? Wrong. AKC is a registry, and as such, the papers
from the registry only attest to the fact that the dog is
a pure-bred Siberian, not that it is a quality, pure-bred
Siberian. There are backyard breeders and puppy mills that
produce mountains of pure-bred Siberian Huskies, but they
don’t pay attention to which dog gets bred to whom,
and smaller outfits often breed close relatives generation
after generation, never once checking to see if they are
producing devastating hereditary defects. If you’re
looking to add a family member to your life for the next
12-15 years, you’ll do well to spend a bit of extra
time now, before you buy the puppy, to find a breeder who
is doing everything possible to produce mentally, physically
and genetically sound Siberians.
One of the most wonderful things about this breed is the
incredible variety of markings, colors and eye color combinations
that are not just available, but equally correct. Often
you’ll see in the classified ads that a litter has
“perfect neck markings.” Only one problem…there’s
no such thing! Sometimes “rare reds” show up
in the litter, but red isn’t a rare color in Siberians,
it’s actually quite common. “Ice blue eyes”
is something that’s mentioned with almost a reverential
quality in the voice, but in truth, eye color is completely
unimportant in this breed. Any time you see claims like
these, or any time you feel the breeder is making the cosmetic
aspect of the dog more important than the temperament and
genetic health, then you know you’re not dealing with
a knowledgeable breeder and you should be looking elsewhere.
Siberians come in every color from solid white to solid
black, with every shade and marking in between being allowable.
Eyes can be blue, brown, one of each, gold and green in
red dogs, and parti-colored in any color of dog. Parti eyes
are eyes with bits of blue in a brown eye, or vice versa.
The colors and markings are not important to the function
of the breed, so the founders of our breed recognized that
by not giving any preference to anything that’s purely
cosmetic. Good breeders understand that the size and shape
of eyes and ears are more important than their color. Good
breeders understand that physical and mental soundness are
a much more important goal in their breeding program than
whatever the current rage in color might be. And you, as
a good Siberian owner, should understand that the dog you’re
bringing home is much more than just it’s coloration.
You might start out thinking you want a red and white girl
with blue eyes, and end up taking home a grey and white,
brown eyed boy. As you become more knowledgeable, more options
open up to you, and that’s good for both you and your
dog!
Just as a good breeder will ask hard questions of you,
you should ask questions of the breeder before you decide
to buy one of their puppies. The breeder will ask if you
intend to keep the puppy in the house, if you wish to show
or do obedience, agility, backpacking, sledding or any of
a number of other fun things that Siberians excel at, and
many other seemingly intrusive questions. Understand that
the breeder only wants to find the best possible homes for
the puppies they’re responsible for bringing into
the world. If you find yourself looking at a litter and
you get the feeling that the “breeder” is only
concerned with whether or not your check will clear, you’re
looking for a puppy in the wrong place. You need to find
a breeder who will not only question you, but will welcome
your questions. Some of the things you might want to know:
1. Have the parents done anything to prove their worthiness
for breeding? There are pure-bred Siberians everywhere,
and most shouldn’t be reproducing. How is it determined
whether a dog should be bred or not? First, does it fit
the Standard for the breed? Each breed has a written blueprint,
describing the “perfect” specimen of the breed.
The Standard for the Siberian Husky describes a medium
sized athlete, and goes into some detail about the correct
temperament, proportions and structure. Before being bred,
both parents should have proven themselves worthy, either
by virtue of show ring wins, time in front of a sled,
obedience and/or agility prowess, or have been evaluated
by a person who’s knowledge of the breed runs deep.
Pedigree evaluation of both parents should be undertaken,
because the goal of a good breeding program is to produce
animals better than either of their parents.
2. Are the sire and dam up to date on genetic screenings?
Siberians have a few hereditary diseases, and thankfully
most have screening tests to weed out affected animals
from a breeding program. Both parents of your prospective
puppy should have up-to-date eye exams and hip screenings,
and you know you’re dealing with a really good breeder
if they have also done the thyroid screening tests. Ask
to see the certificates on both parents. If you’re
told “I’ve never had any problems, so there’s
no need to test,” RUN, don’t walk, away from
that litter. That is the hallmark of an irresponsible
breeding program. Hip exams need to be done once in the
dog’s life, after the age of 2 years. Eye exams
should be done annually. Thyroid screenings are generally
done every 2 years up until the age of 8. If the breeder
can’t produce the paperwork on these tests, you
should be looking elsewhere.
3. Can I meet the parents? Often, the sire won’t
be available, as he may be owned by someone else. In that
event, ask for contact info for the owner of the sire,
and go to meet him if possible. You should certainly be
able to meet the dam, or mother, of the litter, and she
should be friendly. Even when watching over a litter,
most Siberian moms like company, and like to meet strangers.
If she seems wary or shy, ask to see her away from her
puppies. Siberians should be friendly, so if there’s
any growling or snapping or tucked-tail posturing, you
would do well to pass on this litter and keep looking.
Temperament is both nature and nurture…each parent
passes along it’s genetic material to form the temperaments
in the litter, but the dam has a stronger influence, as
the puppies are with her for their first 8 weeks of life,
at least. Things she’s fearful of, the puppies will
be, too. If she’s willing to snarl and bite, chances
are the puppies will be, too. Look for parents with even,
happy temperaments as they will be most likely to produce
puppies like them.
4. When will the puppy be available to take home? If
the answer is anything less than 8 weeks, seriously question
whether or not to buy a puppy from this breeder. The puppy
learns so much between weeks 5 and 9 from its littermates
that it is vital that it remain in the litter until at
least 8 weeks. You’ve probably had experience with
a dog that “doesn’t know it’s a dog.”
That’s generally a dog that has been taken from
it’s litter too early, doesn’t know how to
read dog body language, so is fearful of other dogs. That’s
not what you want from your Siberian puppy…Siberians
are by nature gregarious with people and other dogs, so
let the puppy stay in the litter at least 8 weeks to maximize
that potential.
5. Will any shots have been given, and will you give
me a shot schedule? By 8 weeks, the puppy should have
been dewormed at least once and have at least one set
of shots in it. Puppies need a series of shots in the
first 4 months of life, so while the breeder will start
the shots, you’ll need to know the schedule in order
to give the rest of them properly. Some breeders give
their own puppy shots, and if that’s the case, you
should ask for the peel-off label from the vial for your
records. That way, your vet will know what’s been
given already. The breeder should give you the name of
the veterinarian they use, just in case your vet has any
questions.
6. Do you require a contract? If the answer is no, you’re
probably not looking in the right litter. Most good breeders
require a contract between buyer and seller, not only
to protect both parties to the contract but also to protect
the puppy. If the breeder does use a contract, ask for
a copy early in the litter-scouting process, so you can
read it and ask any questions you might have. There should
be a clause in the contract about what happens to the
puppy in the event you can’t keep it. If the breeder
offers to take back the puppy at any time, for any reason,
you know you’re dealing with someone who cares about
the welfare of the dogs they produce.
7. What will the puppies know when they’re ready
to take home? Puppies raised well will know how to walk
on several different surfaces without being afraid, will
have started learning how to stand on a table, will allow
their feet to be handled because their nails have been
routinely trimmed, will have crate-training and leash-training
started already, and will have some experience riding
in a car. They might have learned how to climb steps,
fetch a ball, play on baby agility equipment, and all
sorts of fun things that puppies can learn in order to
grow into well-adjusted adults. Look for a breeder who
raises their puppies well, and you’ll be on your
way to getting the best puppy.
When visiting litters, look around. It’s hard to
take your eyes off the cute little fur-balls, but look around
at their environment. Is there a strong smell of puppy-poopies?
Worse yet, are there droppings littering the puppy play
area that no one is bothering to clean up? Be careful…puppies
raised in a dirty environment are tougher to house train.
Are the puppies stinky and oily-feeling or are they clean
and sweet-smelling? Don’t expect the dam to look her
best, as whelping and nursing a litter take a lot out of
the poor girl. Do expect her to look cared-for. Is there
plenty of fresh water that she can easily reach? Is there
food available to her, and does it look clean and wholesome?
Watch how the breeder interacts with the puppies…is
there lots of holding and touching and cuddling, or does
it seem like just more livestock? Are the puppies in the
house, or in a special puppy area, or just outside in a
doghouse or barn? If there’s no interaction inside
the house, then those puppies will have a steeper learning
curve when they go to their new homes. In general, the more
things a puppy is positively exposed to in it’s early
life, the more well-adjusted the grown dog will be. This
will be covered in the training chapter in more depth.
You’ve narrowed down your choices, and have decided
on the breeder you want to get your new family member from.
Now, how do you pick the puppy? Honestly, sometimes you
don’t and often that’s the better choice. A
good breeder has spent many hours watching the litter grow
and change, and knows which puppy will be a good match for
your family. In your answers to their questions, they’ll
get a good feeling for your lifestyle, what you expect to
do with the dog, how you would like the dog to behave, etc.
and they can pick the puppy with the best chance to succeed
in your home.
If you’re given the choice of two or three puppies,
here are some tips to help you narrow your choice down to
the one that’s best for you.
1. Generally speaking, you don’t want the puppy that
tries to hide from visitors. That puppy will be shy, and
will take a lot of work to help it come out of its shell.
Often, you can’t “brave up” a shy puppy,
and if you’re not careful, could easily help create
a fear biter.
2. Unless you have lots of experience with Siberians, you
don’t want the one that comes dashing over to you
and climbs all over you, either. The first puppy in a litter
to go exploring and to meet new people is the boldest, which
can be very good if you want a lead dog on a sled team or
a fabulous show dog, but can be hard to live with if you
just want a calm family member.
3. When holding the puppies, turn each one upside down
and cradle it like a baby in your arms. Does it look calmly
at you, right in the eye? That’s a puppy that cares
what you think but isn’t afraid of you, and that’s
a very nice temperament to live with and to train. Do you
see the whites of it’s eyes as it clutches onto your
arm, trembling? Too shy. Does it fight to turn itself upright,
maybe looking you in the eye a bit harshly? Too outgoing
for a first-time Siberian owner.
4. If the breeder will allow it, pick up the hindquarters
of each puppy carefully, leaving the front feet planted
firmly on the ground. Try to hold the puppy there for 30
seconds. A well-tempered, trusting puppy shouldn’t
struggle very much, if at all. It should be a new game to
them. Praise to the skies when you finish with each puppy,
whether or not it passed the test.
5. Again if the breeder will allow it, take each puppy
to a quiet place, play with it a bit, and then introduce
a loud, sharp noise. The puppy should startle but recover
quickly. You don’t want a puppy that runs and hides
or that submissively urinates when startled. And again,
praise and play with the puppy when the test is done…one
loud noise for each puppy will tell you what you need to
know.
In conclusion, while you can find Siberians in most major
cities most days of the week, you’re not looking for
just any Siberian Husky, you’re looking for your new
family member. You’re looking for a dog that will
bring joy to your life for the next 12-15 years, and who
won’t deplete your pocketbook at the vet’s office.
You’re looking for a well-bred dog, so take the time
to find a good breeder. Visit the Siberian
Husky Club of America website or the AKC
website for breeder referral help.
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